Maria McManus makes a point that womenswear can be thoughtful, sleek, and environmentally responsible.

Case in point, most leggings are made of polyester, which means they can linger in a landfill for centuries. The Irish-born designer offers an alternative: biodegradable nylon leggings. For her pre-spring 2026 collection, she introduced a version made from fruit polymer fabric. If disposed of in an industrial landfill, it will break down in just five years.

For Spring 2026 – her first on the Official New York Fashion Week Schedule – she chose a restaurant in the Financial District, where the absence of the venue’s tables transformed the space into an intimate runway. True to her brand’s aim of empowering women, she elevated wardrobe staples by recasting trench coats and button-downs in satin that stood out against sturdier fabrics, layering khaki tones into the palette, and styling cardigans with inventive ease.

We asked Maria a few questions around the perspective and personality that shape her work.

Where are you from? How is your hometown or background woven into your designs?

I grew up in north county Dublin, Ireland, surrounded by farms that were practicing what we now call regenerative farming long before it became a thing. My mum made most of our clothes when we were children; her aunt Bibi crocheted, embroidered and wove baskets by hand, and my aunt Geraldine worked in the wholesale clothing industry in Dublin. Clothing and crafting were just part of my upbringing. Back then, DIY clothing wasn’t exactly a badge of cool.

As I got older, my influences became more eclectic. The music scene in ’90s Dublin was incredible. Later, when I moved to Tokyo to attend university, I found myself surrounded by a totally different aesthetic: fashion-forward and inventive.

Tokyo is a city of contrasts, where the venerable stands alongside the ultra-modern. Those juxtapositions shape my collections—casual yet put together, masculine yet feminine, modern yet traditional.

In the beginning stages of creating a collection, where do you search for inspiration?

I’m fortunate to be surrounded by an incredibly stylish and creative circle of friends—people working across the arts, fashion, music, sustainability, politics and hospitality. The autobiographical nature of how we all dress for any given occasion is a constant source of inspiration for me. Just recently, a friend of mine was hosting her gallery opening wearing the most perfect scarlet satin dress. That shade will most definitely be included in our next collection.

What was your first experience with New York Fashion Week, and how has that shaped you as a designer?

The first runway show I ever attended was Proenza Schouler in the early 2000s during New York Fashion Week. I can still remember every minute. Since then, I’ve attended and worked at countless shows in New York and Paris, but they never get old. There’s something about seeing clothing in motion, the music, the energy of the room, the shared anticipation among a designer’s community. It’s the truest expression of a designer’s world.

If you had to use one of your own pieces for the rest of your life, which would it be and why?

I can’t live without our organic cotton shirts. It’s a style we’ve been honing and reimagining since our very first collection, but it always has the signature cocoon-like box pleats at the back. At first, we made it with corozo nut buttons, but we have since found these beautiful Australian shell buttons that add just the right touch of polish. And of course, I wear it with our wide-leg trousers. Over the past four years, we’ve put a lot of work into the cut, drape and fit of each garment so they feel truly timeless.


Paula Viteri / CFDA
Photos: Maria McManus